Nirmal Purja and nine other climbers die in Pakistan avalanche
Celebrated mountaineer Nirmal Purja and nine other climbers died following a devastating avalanche on Broad Peak in northern Pakistan.
Celebrated mountaineer Nirmal Purja and nine other climbers died following a devastating avalanche on Broad Peak in northern Pakistan, his expedition company confirmed on Saturday, 1 August 2026. The tragedy has sent shockwaves through the global mountaineering community.
The ten mountaineers were caught in the avalanche around midday on Thursday while ascending the mountain. Broad Peak stands as the world's 12th-highest peak, reaching 8,051 metres, and is widely regarded as one of the most technical and challenging climbs in the Karakoram range. According to the Alpine Club of Pakistan, the international expedition comprised five Nepalese climbers, alongside participants from Pakistan, Oman, the United States, and China.
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Purja, a 43-year-old Nepal-born mountaineer globally known as Nims Dai, previously served in the British military with the Gurkhas and later in special forces. He rocketed to international fame in 2019 after setting a record for the fastest ascent of the world's 14 highest mountains, completing the feat in six months. His historic journey was later chronicled in the Netflix documentary 14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible
. Elite Exped, the expedition organising company founded by Purja, shared the devastating news in a social media statement:
"Today it is with profound sadness and immense heartbreak that we confirm that Nirmal 'Nimsdai' Purja tragically lost his life following the avalanche on Broad Peak. We have also received confirmation that other members of the expedition sadly did not survive."
Elite Exped, via Detroit News
Search and rescue operations faced severe hurdles due to the extreme environment. Military helicopters and specialised ground teams deployed to the remote area, but adverse weather conditions, including heavy snowfall, repeatedly hampered rescue efforts. Chhang Dawa Sherpa, a board director of Seven Summit Treks, noted that unlike Nepal, Pakistan does not rely on long-line helicopter rescues, meaning recovery teams must carefully weigh the safety of ground personnel against the dangers of the terrain.
Authorities and regional officials have gradually identified several members of the ill-fated expedition. Three bodies were recovered on Friday, while drone surveillance helped spot additional casualties in a treacherous location. Local police officials confirmed that the remains of Omani climber Nadhira Ahmed Abdullah Al Harthy were flown to Islamabad, while the bodies of American climber Mallory Geis and Nepalese climber Pur Bahadur Gurung were kept at a hospital in Skardu.
Expedition Roster and Team Details
- Nirmal Purja: Expedition leader and renowned British-Nepali mountaineer who held multiple high-altitude records.
- Pur Bahadur Gurung: Veteran Nepalese climber with extensive summit experience, including ten successful ascents of Everest.
- Nadhira Al Harthy: Pioneering Omani climber who previously reached the summits of both Everest and K2.
- Mallory Geis: American climber and former San Antonio business owner undertaking her first 8,000-metre peak expedition in Pakistan.
- Sohail Sakhi: Experienced Pakistani high-altitude guide, geographer, and photographer.
- Wang: Chinese team member identified by regional alpine authorities.
- Additional members and Sherpa guides from Nepal, Oman, and international delegations.
Nepal’s Prime Minister Balendra Shah released a statement noting that the tragedy had shocked us
and praising the indelible legacy left by the climbers. Meanwhile, foreign ministries from Beijing to Kathmandu coordinated with Pakistani officials to support ongoing local operations.
As recovery efforts continue in the Gilgit-Baltistan region, local authorities emphasize that reaching the remaining victims remains an extremely challenging
task requiring skilled mountaineers to climb directly to the site. Further updates regarding the recovery mission and weather conditions are expected as ground teams press forward.
